Alpujarra almeriense →  To the mountain pass La Rágua

Paterna del Río, San Juan Evangelista church
Paterna del Río, baroque altar of the church of San Juan Evangelista
Bayárcal, Mudejar Church of San Francisco Javier
Paterna del Río, San Juan Evangelista church Paterna del Río, baroque altar of the church of San Juan Evangelista Bayárcal, Mudejar Church of San Francisco Javier

Laujar de Andarax is the starting point of this 'La Rágua Route' through the highest area of ​​the province of Almería. Before reaching Laujar de Andarax, the green landscape draws us to the proximity of the Andarax River on the slopes of the Sierra Nevada. The town, once the capital of a Muslim tahá (administrative district), preserves the intact essence of the Alpujarras and is one of the most popular destinations for rural tourism enthusiasts. On the way to Paterna del Río, visitors can stop for a rest at the Cortijada de Guarros, an old Moorish settlement. Here is one of the must-sees on this route: the Baths of Santiago, a pool with ferruginous thermal waters that is always busy.
The village of Paterna del Río is surrounded by a multitude of terraced farms, a legacy of the Andalusian past. The town is crowned by the Church of San Juan Evangelista. This beautiful Mudejar-style Christian temple has been declared a cultural-historical monument and houses one of the most beautiful Baroque altarpieces in the entire province of Almería. The church square also provides an interesting vantage point over the surrounding landscape. At an altitude of 1,255 meters lies Bayárcal, the highest village in the province of Almería. The village, with its chalk-white houses rising up against the mountains, forms a picturesque ensemble integrated into the mountainous landscape, where time seems to have stood still in Al-Andalus. At that time, this village was an important silk production center.

Bayárcal, church tower with still visible Moorish traces
Road A-337 to Puerto de la Rágua
Puerto de la Rágua in winter
Bayárcal, church tower with still visible Moorish traces Road A-337 to Puerto de la Rágua Puerto de la Rágua in winter

Remains of the Muslim fortress still exist today in the Yniza area. Built for defense, the castle is strategically located and overlooked the La Rágua mountain pass, a natural passage between the provinces of Granada and Almería. Protruding from the flat roofs of the houses is the Mudejar church of San Francisco Javier, built in the 16th century. During the Moorish rebellion in the Alpujarra, it served as a refuge for the Christian population of Bayárcal. The church was eventually destroyed by the Moors and rebuilt by the Archbishop of Granada at the end of the same century.
The area surrounding Bayárcal offers countless opportunities to enjoy nature. In winter, the La Rágua mountain pass is covered in a thick mass of white snow, making it possible to practice cross-country skiing, something that can seem almost unbelievable in the province of Almería.
Fishing enthusiasts will find the Bayárcal River a true paradise, where they can indulge in this leisure activity immersed in the silence punctuated by the sounds of nature. The landscape around Bayárcal, with its terraced apple and cherry trees, ancient holm oaks, and various viewpoints in the area, is a popular destination for amateur photographers.